Go off-piste to really impress the wine buff in your life, suggests MARY DOWEY
Choosing a few bottles as Christmas presents? The territory can be treacherous. Sometimes even with generous instincts ramped up to the max, you may end up buying over-familiar, under-performing wines – the socks and scarves of the drinks world. The solution is to do a spot of homework, then go all-out for glamour.
Champagne always tops my list, both as giver and receiver, because the best is so utterly luxurious. Even the lunatic fringe who claim not to enjoy drinking it appreciate having an outstanding bottle on hand to open for friends.
But plenty of other stylish possibilities are easily available at less chilling prices, as you’ll see from the suggestions below. Why no Bordeaux? To me it’s just a bit too predictable – the default Christmas offering piled high in every supermarket and off-licence in the country. And it doesn’t even go particularly well with Christmas food.
Final word of advice: if you’re buying for a serious wine buff, go off-piste. Something unusual – perhaps from a little-known region or an inside-track producer – is more likely to be appreciated than a bottle bearing a well-worn name. Unless it’s an absolute legend, of course; a Tiffany diamond in liquid form – in which case go right ahead, reaching into your very deepest pocket.
1. TOP-DRAWER CHAMPAGNE
About 20 famous houses have sat at the top of the champagne tree for centuries. Unfairly, in some cases. My current favourites are: Krug, Dom Perignon, Bollinger, Billecart-Salmon, Roederer, Pol Roger, Deutz or Ruinart. Increasingly, though, smaller houses are stirring up excitement. Look out for Vilmart, Gobillard, Bruno Paillard, Philipponnat and, for value, Beaumont des Crayères.
Champagne Vilmart Grand Cellier Brut, Premier Cru NV Smooth and perfectly balanced. From Quintessential, Drogheda, quintessentialwines.ie; Green Man, Dublin 6; about €63.
2. BRILLIANT WHITE BURGUNDY
Of all the great classics, this is probably the most widely appreciated – not
merely stylish and food-friendly, but subtly nuanced. If pinnacles like
Puligny-Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne are beyond reach, consider Meursault, Saint-Aubin, Savigny-les-Beaune, Rully, Saint-Véran or the top tier of Mâcon-Villages.
Vincent Girardin Savigny-les-Beaune Vermots dessus 2011 At a tasting, this one – biodynamically produced – stood out. From Le Caveau, Kilkenny, www.lecaveau.ie, Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2; about €29.
3. ELEGANT PINOT NOIR
Purists may argue that Burgundy produces the most thrilling Pinot Noir but the truth is that many wine lovers find top New World Pinots more immediately seductive. They tend to be a little fruitier, a shade less austere. New Zealand, California, Oregon
and Washington State, brimming with beauties, lead the field.
Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2013. The perfect compromise: a polished North American Pinot from one of Burgundy’s best-known wine families. A star with turkey, duck or ham. From Marks & Spencer, €37.
4. SWISH SIDE OF ITALY
Most wine buffs adore Italy. No other country is covered from top to toe by so many wine regions growing so many intriguing grape varieties. Signposts to new sophistication? Within Tuscany, advance beyond Chianti to Bolgheri and the Maremma. Collio in the northeast and Etna in Sicily are exciting too.
Medici Riccardi Bolgheri 2012. Bolgheri, the birthplace of illustrious SuperTuscans, now
in Lidl? I blinked too. It’s one of a number of smart wines sourced by this German giant. And it’s a winner, with layers of plummy fruit and gentle spice wrapped around a juicy core. From Lidl, €19.99.
5. A RICH RIOJA
Spain is making quite an impact on the middle to upper end of the Irish market with an array of interesting wines at reasonable prices. As with all large, well-known regions, it’s worth paying a bit over the odds for a bottle that will be memorable. Modern Rioja, matured in French oak, tends to be richer in style than the traditional stuff.
Muga Rioja Selección Especial 2010.
A good choice for anybody with a cellar: it will taste even better in a few years. Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; O’Donovans, Cork; about €35.
6. STYLISHLY SWEET
If you think sweet wines are naff, keep that seditious thought to yourself or you’ll invite charges of uncivilised behaviour. More to the point, be aware that the great sweet wines of the world – Sauternes, Barsac, Tokaji,Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and the rest – would never have remained so highly prized if it weren’t for their heavenly flavours.
Royal Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2008.
Hungary’s exquisite sweet wine is the stuff of legend – and delicious with a lighter type of Christmas pud. From O’Briens, €19.99 (250ml).
OTHER SMART BETS
- Fino sherry
- Rhône whites
- Austrian reds
BUT PROBABLY NOT
- Prosecco
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Chilean Merlot
This article appeared in a previous issue, for more features like this, don’t miss our January issue, out Thursday January 7.
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