LIGHTEN UP! This JUICY BIODYNAMIC RED is just the thing for spring …
Pardas Sus Scrofa, Penedès 2015
Forget blockbuster reds – at least for a while and possibly for a long time. Lighter spring and summer dishes taste better with lighter wines but that’s only half the story. The pendulum of fashion, a powerful determinant of our drinking habits, is swinging back towards the subtler, more refreshing styles that were the norm before overripe grapes, swaggering oak and giddy alcohol levels seduced us into believing that the best wines were big bruisers.
This light-to-medium-bodied red from the Penedès region west of Barcelona is bang on trend. Sus Scrofa (meaning wild boar – I’m guessing because those animals love to eat grapes) comes from an organic estate set up by a couple of winemakers in 1996. The approach is low-tech and old-school, embodying two tendencies that are very much in vogue today. And the grape involved, Sumoll, native to the region, is so niche as to be almost unheard-of – another plus for those who favour local traditions and individualistic flavours over global sameness.
The bottom line is that Sus Scrofa is tasty as well as trendy. With raspberry and cherry aromas and a hint of the earthiness that is so often an attractive aspect of artisan wines, it tastes savoury as well as fruity. A lively tang of acidity and a squeeze of tannin in the finish make it better with food than by itself but you won’t need to fret too much about finding the perfect partner. Sausages, charcuterie, chicken, barbecued vegetables, cheese on toast… they’ll all be enhanced by this succulent, old-style, strangely modern red.
From Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Drinkstore, Dublin 7; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock; 64 Wine, Glasthule; La Touche, Greystones, about €18.
MARY DOWEY @MaryDowey
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