An Exotic, Exciting White That’s Just Right For Spring

TAKE A BREAK from red this week and enjoy a HUNGARIAN WHITE

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MÁD Tokaji Dry Furmint 2015

If, like me, you’re feeling as bored with heavyweight winter reds right now as you are with heavyweight winter clothes, it no longer seems insane to lighten up. The trick is to choose something that won’t send a shiver down your spine if March performs its usual sunny-chilly double act. Where white wines are concerned, you’ll appreciate a little bit of body – and maybe a touch of novelty too. This heavenly Hungarian delivers both deliciously.

It’s made from Furmint, the grape variety mainly responsible for Hungary’s famous sweet Tokaji, one of the world’s most glorious dessert wines. But here, although you may pick up some similar notes of apricots, pears and honey with hints of smoke and spice, the end note is dry. In other words, the wine is so beautifully balanced that it manages to be quite rich but super-refreshing at the same time. And, as with all top-quality wines, the flavours linger on and on.

Roast pork is the most popular food recommendation to show it off (especially with an apricot stuffing, or with quartered pears slipped into the roasting tin). I’d also love it with a tangy young goat’s cheese (spring grass provides some of the best); or ginger-cured salmon; or stir-fried prawns; or a chicken tajine that includes apricots for maximum effect.

Besides tasting terrific, MÁD Dry Furmint from Tokaji is intriguingly different – just the sort of thing that’s needed, particularly around this time of year, to shake us out of wine routines and ruts. It comes in a smart looking bottle too, complete with fashionable and highly effective glass stopper.

Alcohol: 13.5%

From Whelehans Wines, Loughlinstown, €19.95

MARY DOWEY

Don’t miss our next issue, out Saturday March 4.

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